What Are People Saying
About Their HOD Units?

"We used to go 10 miles and literally watch the gas needle go down. Now we've gone about 60 miles and the needle has barely moved!"

What Will HOD Do For Me?

• Better mileage

• Cleaner emissions

• More engine power

• Steam cleans engine

• Engine runs cooler

Don't Be Fooled By Big, Expensive Units!

• Big units are too big for most cars

• Too much hydrogen production is counter-productive and leads to decreased fuel economy

• The glass jars are simple and will withstand very high temperatures

• The glass jars are also easy to see into and easy to know when to refill or clean

• You don't have to spend $1500 to get something that will last!

Installation Tips
A full description is included in the kit

1. Before installing check out the area available for the installation. The best place is as far away from the exhaust manifold as possible. I've found that, looking at the engine, the front left works in many instances.

2. Once you have located the place for the unit to sit it should have easy access; changing the water/baking soda and cleaning the jar must be easy to do. If not, find a better spot.

3. The unit should be held in place with a bungee cord or a bungee cord and a piece of 1/2-inch wood with a hole in it to accommadate the jar. I put a shim under my battery and set the jar on it and bungee-ed the jar to the engine compartment. I've driven over gravel and rutted roads and the unit never moves.

4. Lay out the black vacuum lines how they will go from the unit to the airbox and to a vacuum line that goes into the intake manifold. Usually the 3/8 hose coming from the brake booster is perfect for the second vacuum port. If this bothers you (using the brake boost) then put stainless steel clamps on each end of the 'T'. The black line fits into the 'T' with the help of a small amount of WD40 in the tubing.

5. The one-way check valves are installed for your convenience. They should be placed closer to the unit than to where the two tubes attach to the motor. These check valves are a safety precaaution. No pressure ever builds up in the unit because of the small check valve on the top of the unit. Try to run the lines behind things or use small plastic ties to hold the lines to other tubes in the engine so they will be out of the way.

6. Locate where you are going to draw your power from. The ideal place is the windshield wiper motor. Get a test light and pull the windshield washer motor electrical connector apart. Turn the ignition on and use the test light to determine which pin is hot with the key in the on position. This can be used on any module in the engine compartment. We use max 8 amps and the windshield washer is the closest to that. Once you have found the pin that lights the test light, trace it out of the module and find the wire that it connects to. Use the enclosed quick coupler (in blue) to attach the red wire to that wire. Ground the black wire to any number of available places.

7. Do not shorten the black vacuum hose! It is 3.5 feet long for safety reasons. You can coil it up if it's way too long and wire tie it out of the way. You can cut the vacuum hose to install the 'T' in it, then find an out-of-the-way, but easy-to-access place to install the black connector into the airbox by drilling a 5/8 or 11/16th hole in the plastic tubing, after the MAP sensor, that allows the air into the engine. I use super glue to install the black connector (included in the kit) that is cut at a 45 degree angle. This angle allows the Venturi effect to pull the hydrogen and water vapor into the combustion chamber. Now push the two ends of the black hose that are connected onto the two black outputs on the top of the jar.

8. You are now ready to fill the jar with distilled water. The jars have a vertical embossed line up the sides (corners) of the jar - this is a good 'fill to' line. Then add 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda to the water and shake up the jar to dissolve the baking soda.

9. Never add to the water in the jar! When it gets below half way, simply unscrew the jar, dump the water and replenish the jar with fresh water and baking soda mixture. By observing the amount of electrolysis action going on in the jar you can determine if it is too strong or too weak.

10. Remember that baking soda causes heat in the jar and if you have too many amps of DC power going through the jar it can boil out all the water and your economy will go down. 5-7 amps with 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda is an ideal place to start. We are all experimentors and there are no hard and fast rules, except don't shorten the black hoses and don't add water to the jar - always change it.

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How Does It Actually Work?

Simply put, electrolysis is how it works. Combining distilled water with baking soda added as a catalyst and introducing an electric current cracks the hydrogen and oxygen molecules, allowing these molecules to bubble to the surface of the electrolyzer and then be pulled into the combustion chamber through the vacuum action of the engine. The illustration below shows the basic concept. The Basics of Installation The pictures below show the basics of how a unit gets installed. Detailed instructions are included with your kit. The vehicle pictured is a 1993 Landcruiser. Since it is a computerized car, installation of a D.E.F.I.E (Digital Electronic Fuel Injector Enhancer) will be required to see improved mileage. If you are familiar with engines and auto electrics, you can install my units and the D.E.F.I.E. yourself. Otherwise, I recommend you consult a professional auto mechanic or auto electric mechanic. After watching and assisting with the installation pictured below, the owner of this vehicle installed the Main Man unit in his 1987 Chevy himself.
	This is the Main Man unit. Your distilled water/baking soda mixture is poured in here, leaving about 2 inches of air space for the hydrogen to circulate.
	As you can see the unit is tucked in next to the windshield washer container. Notice the piece of plywood that the unit is sitting on. This is to give the unit stability. The black wire (ground) from the top of the unit is bolted to the side of the engine bay to the right of the windshield washer container.
	This picture shows how the unit hooks up the engine's electrical system. Notice the red wire (hot) that goes from the top of the unit to the back of the engine bay, where it has been spliced into a hot lead.
	Here's a close-up of the splice. We simply used a 12-volt electrical test light to find a hot lead while the ignition key was turned to the Accessories position and spliced the red wire to the hot lead with the blue splicer (included with kit). Finding the hot lead while the key is turned means you are using a connection that will only give power when the key is turned. This prevents the unit from running when the car is off.
	This picture shows how the vacuum hoses are run in the engine. The right-hand vacuum hose goes to the manifold, and the left-hand vacuum hose goes to the air intake past the MAP sensor. Notice the white ring on the right-hand hose - this safety feature is a one-way valve that prevents the gas from backing up into the jar and causing overheating of the jar.
	This is how the hose gets hooked into the manifold with a T-junction.
	Here's the left-hand vacuum hose hooked up to the air intake. A small hole was drilled and a connector piece glued in place with Super Glue Gel.
	The last thing you do is use a bungee cord (blue cord pictured) to secure the glass jar so that it doesn't get knocked around in the engine bay and break. Refilling the unit is a simple matter of unhooking the bungee, lifting the unit up and unscrewing the jar from the lid. When refilling, take care not to let any dirt get in the jar or on the wire-wrapped core.

How Does It Actually Work?

The Basics of Installation